|
|||||||
|
|
|
|||||
|
|
|||||||
 |
 |
   |
|||
|
I connected the power side of the relay directly to the battery positive which was not a very good move - more on that later - and ran the ground wire through the main electrical system harness grommet under the master cylinder.
[Click to enlarge] From there,
I ran the wire up the steering column to the switch that I mounted in
the column cover. I just took a short piece of wire from the other side
of the switch to a metal bolt where the column bolts to the dash assembly.
|
|
|
|
After the switch was installed, Jay "Mastermind" Dahl found out that by turning the new switch on, turning the headlights on and off again, he could flip the new switch and catch the retractors to make the car have that sleepy eye look. You can see it in the photo above. I also found out that with my wiring setup, I could guarantee myself a dead battery in the morning. The cure for that is to (A.) Turn the switch off at night so the relay isn't energized 24/7, or (B.) Run the power side of the relay to a switched circuit. Right now I'm using method A until I get time and daylight to do method B. March 20, 2001(Note: I've since switched to method B!)
One note about working in a *really* clean engine bay... (this car looks almost showroom under the hood): You can lose stuff quite easily. It took four people about an hour to find a relay that mysteriously disappeared. Well, it didn't really disappear. It just wasn't where I thought I put it. I thought I put it on top of the battery, but we determined it was in fact on top of the strut tower and got knocked off and under the master cylinder. Now for your standard grocery list: 12v relay 12v switch 8~10 feet of decent wire 12-14 gauge Misc. connectors (mostly female spades) A little knowledge of D.C. electronics Total cost is less than $20, $10 if you're picky. Thanks to Dale
Clark for letting me snap these shots with his digital camera and for
putting up with me when I thought I was losing my mind trying to find
that relay. |
|
|
|
|||||
